![]() The advantage is if you want to tune down half a step, tune to drop D, or try an alternate tuning you are not limited by standard tuning. The disadvantage of this is you only know how close in pitch you are to the nearest note, not the next closest note on the guitar’s open strings (E, A, D, G, B, and E). If using chromatic mode you will see the next nearest note of the chromatic scale, which are all the notes used in western music and not limited to just the strings on your guitar. The difference is that when selecting guitar mode, only the notes the strings are intended to be tuned to are indicated on the tuner e.g. In our case, when tuning a guitar you can use chromatic or guitar. Most electronic tuners will have different settings available including chromatic, guitar, and bass at the very least. Once in tune, the digital screen will display a green LED light, or red to indicate that you are sharp or flat (see image above). Usually, this is in the form of a digital needle that oscillates indicating how close in pitch you are to the desired note. In any case, regardless of the tuner, you are using: pedal, clip-on or other, tuning your guitar using a tuner is simply a matter of turning the tuning pegs on your guitar until the pitch matches the pitch indicated on the tuner. Some argue that they’re not as precise as a pedal or strobe tuner but they tend to perform pretty well on tests I’ve seen and the difference in accuracy (if any) is well and truly accounted for in terms of practicality, and price. Snark clip-on tuners are very popular and relatively inexpensive. I’ve written a fairly lengthy article on guitar tuners, the different types, and how they work, but if you don’t have a tuner and don’t know what to get, clip-on tuners are a great, inexpensive, modern innovation. And, if you have one available, use it, as you will be in tune with the rest of the world, not just your own guitar. Most people tune their guitars using an electronic tuner. How to tune your guitar with an electronic tuner Stretching the strings first takes any potential slackness out of the strings and saves you re-tuning. New strings tend to go out of tune very easily. Stretching new strings is also well worth taking the time to do. Restringing in this way keeps the string lower on the post at the point of contact which increases the downward pressure on the nut and provides greater tuning stability. Stretch the strings, tune again and repeat.Tuning down can result in the string slipping, especially if the nut grooves are tight. Position each wind lower than the previous on the tuning post.2 inches of slack in the string before you start winding If the ball end starts rising out of the bridge pin when tightening the string, hold the pin in place reasonably firmly while tightening the string.When the bridge pin is in place pull lightly on the string to ensure the ball-end won’t slip when tension is increased on the string.Lastly, you will need to restring the guitar. ![]() ![]() And, as more tension is placed upon the string, the string stretches more than it normally would, which raises the pitch. ![]() While it’s only marginal if you hit the strings harder you theoretically can raise the pitch ever-so-slightly. ![]() How hard you hit your strings (your attack) when tuning should closely match the attack you would normally play with. If you’re new to the guitar check out our article on acoustic guitar anatomy, it goes into more detail about tuning pegs, ‘gear ratio’, and the types available. Naturally then, to raise the pitch of a string turn the tuning pegs from inside to out (clockwise on the right, counter-clockwise on the left). The direction you turn your tuning pegs (aka machine heads and/or tuners) depends on the direction the strings are wound onto the tuning peg posts.īut, in most cases, they are wound from inside to out, as this prevents the strings from coming into close contact with one another on the headstock. ![]()
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